From Design to Production: Challenges in Fabric Pattern Design

Author: Sophie Chen

Date: 28 Nov 2024

Silk scarves, as a fashion accessory, have increasingly become a focus of attention due to the rising demand for personalization. The challenges related to the adaptability of  pattern designs and production techniques have gradually gained industry prominence. From luxury brands like Hermès driving innovation in design to modern designers exploring customization, fabric patterns not only reflect a brand’s culture but also carry the aesthetic value of the products.

However, one topic that designers and small to medium retailers often encounter is: why is there always a significant gap between the designs  and the production outcomes? In this series, we focus on answering this question, and in this article, we will explore the common issues that arise in the design stage. Another major concern for designers is color differences, which we will discuss in another article titled “The Nightmare of Obsessive-Compulsive Designers –Color Differences:  Causes and Solutions”.

A good designer, aside from creativity and technique, should also be an expert in craftsmanship, especially in the realm of color. However, when designers create silk scarves that combine both artistry and commercial viability, they often face technical challenges, particularly in pattern clarity, color matching, and process adaptability. Below are detailed discussions of these issues.

1.Pattern Clarity and Matching with Fine Craftsmanship

Silk scarf designs typically require high precision, especially in intricate patterns where details are crucial. We sometimes encounter the following situations from our clients:

1)Finding a good image online, taking a screenshot, and sending it directly to the manufacturer for production. 

2)AI-generated images being sent to the manufacturer without any manual intervention. 

3)Image files losing their precision during the saving process.

These images may appear fine on a mobile or computer screen, but imagine if they were printed on a 90x90cm or even a 100x200cm silk scarf—what you’d see is a pixelated mess.

To avoid this issue, you need to work with a reliable designer who uses Photoshop, sets the canvas size to match the dimensions of the scarf, and ensures that the image remains clear even at 300dpi. Designers  also need to pay close attention to the fine details of the patterns during the working process.

We receive 30-50 design drafts from  the clients around the world on day bases, and half of them contain inexplicable noise. To understand why the noise occurs, please refer to the article on the issue of Image Noise Faced By Designers”.

Some errors can be detected before sending designs to production through file reviews—as clients’ designers need to double-check before sending.  Our production designers also would  carefully review the designs before the production. Nevertheless, some issues can only be discovered during the production process. Therefore, we consistently emphasize the importance of creating a pre-production sample.

For instance, if a client’s black logo is printed on a smoky black background, the design software may show a clear logo against the background, but when the physical sample is made, the black logo may not be visible due to inadequate blackness or poor contrast with the background. Sometimes, the production designers have to adjust the smoky background, and they might create three versions, all of which are either too bright or the transition between colors is too harsh.

This is why it’s not realistic for some designers to hold the believe that the first sample or the first small batch of products should yield a perfect result.

2.Correctly Assessing Craft Adaptability — Not All Colors Are Suitable for Fabric Printing

The choice of color has a profound impact on the overall effect of  a silk scarf. Designers  have to consider the compatibility of color and fabric when designing patterns. Different colors look different on various fabrics, and different printing techniques also affect the final presentation of the colors.

For example, overly pale colors can result in uneven dyeing, while very dark colors can make the fabric stiff and harsh. Therefore, designers need to carefully evaluate color selection to ensure that the colors and fabric can perfectly complement each other.

For instance, during the production of expensive silk and wool blended scarves, a design with a pale pink background and scattered black lines can cause issues. The dye absorption properties of silk and wool are different, and when combined with a light background and dark lines, it leads to interference between the dyeing agents, increasing the likelihood of defects by 30%. This is also why silk-wool blend scarves are expensive.

On the other hand, large areas of dark colors, such as black and  navy, often cause fabric stiffness and harshness during production. This is because dark dyes require higher concentrations and longer dyeing processes, which affect the softness and sheen of the silk scarf. In such cases, a softening process is necessary. However, the softening treatment is typically only applied during the mass production, not during the sample production.   This requires a designer to understand that softening techniques can only be implemented during large-scale production.

For example, the softening process for scarves involves the use of softening machines, fabric softener coating devices, or high-temperature treatment equipment. These processes must be conducted under strict control of temperature, humidity, and time to ensure the fibers are softened. These types of equipment are part of a large-scale production line, and the softening process requires precise control at every stage. Only during mass production, through batch processing, can the consistency and stability of the process be ensured, while costs and time constraints can only be managed at scale.

This serves as a reminder to the pattern designers: either avoid large areas of dark colors, by understanding why the sample feels stiff and harsh, or realize why large-scale production can achieve better softness.

In conclusion, while the design process for silk scarves involves creativity and artistry, it also requires technical expertise in craftsmanship, color science, and a thorough understanding of fabric characteristics. The key to a successful design lies in a close partnership between designers and manufacturers, ongoing communication, and an appreciation for the complexities of translating a design concept into a tangible product.

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